Thursday 9 July 2009

I'll take the high road...

Decided to head down Glasgow's oldest street today. High Street. Or High Church Street as it used to be called. I've already strolled down here on the way back from the Cathedral visit but hadn't taken photos. Today wanted to take a bit of time to study this old road.

This was the most important street in medieval Glasgow as it ran from the Cathedral down to Glasgow Cross and the Trongate, two areas I've already covered. Starting to stitch all the bits of the city together now.

So jumped back into the trusty Tardis and heading off...

Now as we all know the Tardis is not actually that trusty so it actually landed me too far north in Castle Street not far from the Cathedral. Suppose should just be grateful it was the right year!! :)
(I read in a guidebook that there are only a dozen of these police boxes left in the UK. Found four in Glasgow so far. Buchanan Street, Great Western road, a read one on Wilson Street and this one. There also one in the Transport Museum. Anyone know of any more?)


Anyway thought I would take advantage of landing here to cross the road and visit the Provand's Lordship. The oldest house in Glasgow. This is right across the street from St. Mungo's museum which I visited in one of my first posts but never got time that day to pop in.
The house was built in 1471 as part of St Nicholas's Hospital by the Bishop of Glasgow. It later became the town residence of one of the canons of the cathedral chapter. This clergyman is thought to have drawn his income from the rents and taxes of Balernock, and was known as the 'Lord of the Prebend of Balernock', later corrupted to 'Lord of Provan'. The house takes its name from this title.

The age of the building just makes it something special. A real touchstone with medieval life in this city.

http://www.glasgowmuseums.com/venue/index.cfm?venueid=11


Inside the house is just very atmospheric. Really gives you a good idea of what life would have been like over 500 years ago. Perhaps the Tardis has brought me back in time!! :) One of the first things you notice is how much smaller the doorways are. The mind your head signs are vital and I'm not exactly a giant.
Photo above is of some of the furniture on display. This chair is from 1629. Funny to think that the building was over 150 years old before this chair was made.


There is also some lovely stained glass windows. A very special friend of mine took a photo of this one a few years ago. Posting it up here to remind her. Know it will make her smile.
Really is one of the beautiful little details in this building.


Round the back of the building there is also a lovely walled garden with a fountain in the middle. St. Nicolas Garden. Found a few people just sitting relaxing and eating lunch here today. Really is a lovely little spot.


And around the walls are these fascinating faces. Each one showing a different emotion or expression. Think this is my Monday morning face!! :)
These faces date from 1737 and were originally formed the arch keystones in the Tontine Hotel piazza in the Trongate.

Across from the Provand's Lordship is Cathedral Square. Few features in here. This one really caught my eye. It is a mosaic that plays upon the "Let Glasgow Flourish" motto. Checked up later and found that this area is in fact the Peace Gardens. The mosaic was made by members of Project Ability.

http://www.project-ability.co.uk/



There is a most striking church in the corner of the square. This is the Glasgow Evangelical Church, formerly know as the Barony North Church, dating from 1880. The most striking features of the church are the four stone-carved figures on the roof representing the evangelists, Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. Another building that looks amazing as you walk around and see it from different angles.


Back onto High Street proper now and the first building is the Barony Church dating from 1889. Really is a very grand and impossing building as you walk around it. This belongs to Strathclyde University now. Was being used for graduation today. Took me back to my own graduation seeing all the happy graduates and proud parents. Students get a bad press sometimes but it is hard work and stressful a lot of the time. Know I wouldn't want to go through those final exams again!! So congratulations to all this year's graduates from all the universities around the city!!


Down a wee bit from the Barony are these two blocks of red sandstone tenement buildings on either side of the road with a row of shops on the ground floor. These in themselves are actually lovely buildings with lots of details on them dating from 1901. One of them bears the inscription City Improvement Trust, the name of the body which was charged with the task of cleaning up the squalid living conditions that existed in the city in the second half of the nineteenth century.
I didn't know this until today but this area was actually know as the Bell o' the Brae, signifying it was the highest part of the slope up the hill. It was also seemingly the site of Glasgow's oldest battle in July 1297, though some claim it is a fable. Stories seem to vary but it involved William Wallace, FREEDOM!! :), attacking the English garrison at the Bishop's Castle. The English garrison chased Wallace and ended up in a trap being attacked from both sides. Just a couple of months after this Wallace led the Scottish army to victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge.
I didn't see any marker or anything in High Street to even mention this fact? Did I miss it or should there be one?

Now High Street is a much under utilised area in Glasgow. The center of Glasgow moving west over the years, Buchanan Street at one point was considered too far west for development!! But High Street been bit forgotten about in my opinion. These row of shops has so much potential. And like I said in my post on Parnie Street I love these wee independent shops. Places where you can browse around and find something different. Can't have every street having a Next store and, much as I love their blueberry swirl cheescake, do we really need another Starbucks?

Featured below a couple of the interesting shops on High Street today...


I am a bit of a footie fan so this shop caught my eye immediately. Went in to have a browse around and ended up having a nice chat with the shop owner Brian. Talked about football, the potential for High Street, bringing up kids and life in general.
And that's one of the great things I love about these shops. You not just another person in the queue for the till.


Here just a small selection of what is on offer at this cool shop. Signed tops from a lot of the top football stars, Larsson's Barcelona top in the window, Muhammad Ali's gloves, Theo Walcott's boots... But suppose for me the highlight was to see one of Davie Cooper's shirts. Davie Cooper was my football hero when I was young.
Pop in here if you have the chance. If you are a sports fan at all then sure there will be something to see.
http://www.thecaptainsarmband.com/
Was great to meet Brian and I wish him good fortune in this business venture!!



Another shop across the street that I popped into for a browse was 23 Enigma. This is Scotland's oldest occult shop. I have a curious mind and find this sort of thing fascinating. Well worth popping in to have a browse if you are looking for a magical gift for someone special. Everyone needs a wee bit of magic in their life!!
http://www.23enigma.com/



Last shop going to mention here is onto the corner with George Street. This is W.Crum and Son. This is an electrical applicance and repair shop. This shop has been here as long as I can remember. I can remember my mum getting spare parts for a hoover from here when the dual cyclone was still just a twinkle in Mr. Dyson's eye!! :)
This just a small selection, there is a cool coffee shop and a lovely florist and a nearly new shop. Go and browse and discover the joy of pottering around in wee shops again!!



Just down for the junction with George / Duke Street is the Old College bar. The signs says it was built in 1515 and the bar was established in 1810. Another oldest bar in Glasgow!! :)

The name of the bar relates to the fact that Glasgow University, or the Old College as it was known, was situated on High Street until 1863 when it moved up to it's current location in the West End.

In doing this blog I have seen old photos of the Old College before it moved and it really was a lovely building dating from the 1600's dominated by the Dutch steeple. It hard to believe now that it was razed to the ground to make way for a railway yard when the University moved. What a stunning addition it would have made to High Street today.


Next to the Old College bar this building stands out on it's own in the middle of the undeveloped part of the middle of High Street. This is number 215 and used to be the British Linen Bank building and dates from 1895. The figure on the top is seemingly Pallas, the Greek goddess of wisdom and weaving. Amazing the things you learn when you walk about!!


As I said this area of High Street pretty much undeveloped at the moment. Waste ground on one side and the High Street car park on the other. But this, it seems, is going to change. Big signs for the development of Collegelands and the Glasgow City Science park promise much for this area. The bulldozers were there today and work seems to have started.

http://www.propertyweek.com/story.asp?storycode=3104207
http://www.futureglasgow.co.uk/Index_Regeneration_Areas.html

Not sure of the completion dates for these projects but they do look very impressive and will be a great addition to the city.



Now why have I got a photo of a dentist on this post?
Well this used to be my dentist and not only is it a very good dental practice but one of the dentists there is Kieran Docherty who is a very talented local singer/song writer. I have seen him play live a number of times at the Tron Theatre and Oran Mor up at Byres Road and he was brilliant.

Here is a wee bit of his stuff on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6sSFTmniPk

If you like this then his stuff also on iTunes. Enjoy!!


Now down the Blackfriars Street that runs off High Street. The name Blackfriars comes from the fact that the Dominicans, or Black Friars, founded a monastery on the east side of High Street in 1240.
This is the sign I noticed on the Black Bull pub on the corner. "Enter as a stranger, leave as a friend". I like that. Hope that is also true of anyone new coming to visit Glasgow!!


Just a wee bit futher down Blackfriars Street is Babbity Bowster. This is a great pub and was a bit of a regular haunt when I used to work round in George Street. Has a lovely beer garden that was being enjoyed yesterday.
This building dates from 1794 but and was originally built as a house but was rennovated in 1986. The name comes from a late 1700's fertility dance.


Now down onto Bell Street. This is a photo of the massive Bell Street Warehouses built in 1883. They were originally built for the Glasgow and South Western Railway, have been converted into flats. Another part of the regeneration of the Merchant City and High Street.

After that had a wee quick walk up part of the Gallowgate but that for another day. It was getting late and headed back past the Toolbooth steeple at the Trongate again.
Was a really interesting walk through a very historic part of Glasgow, but also part of Glasgow that looks like over next few years will have some of the most exciting new developments.
Take a walk up here if you get the chance and visit some of the shops that are there today. In fact the walk from Trongate to the Cathedral is the best wee tour that you can recommend to anyone wanting to know about old Glasgow.
Be well, be happy!!

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